Miter Saw Stand


I researched all the different type of miter stands and decided on making a miter stand similar to one that was featured in Fine Woodworking Magazine. I decided on this stand because of the fence and it only needed two sheets of 3/4" plywood. The article is poorly written and doesn't really help in making the stand aside from the dimensions, so there's no reason to look for a back issue.

During my research I located a web site,, that has a list of various websites that offer different miter saw stand ideas. Although this Is a great website, the miter stand I decided on isn't listed on this website.

I based my hanging wall cabinet on an article in Fine Woodworking Magazine. The article was very helpful in building the cabinet. In my opinion, the opposite is true regarding this article. The article is rather useless outside of the dimensions. If you're the type that needs a little more information than just the dimensions, I would recommend purchasing the miter stand plans at The plans are very good and only cost about $5.00.

The article mentions using drywall screws to secure everything. I don't like visible screws so I made a few changes. I added 1/2" to the sides and back of the carcass to allow for a 1/4" dado in the bottom and top. I used a Kreg Jig to connect some of the pieces. I also used glue, which he didn't use at all, to secure the front and back pieces of the fence and fence support pieces. The article also included a dedicated dust collecting shop vac located below the miter saw. I felt the shop vac was a waste of valuable drawer space so instead of the shop vac I added several drawers. After using various drawer designs in my workshop, I determined the best drawer designs for the dust in my shop. I included these drawers on this project.

     Top - 22" X 30-1/2"
     Bottom - 22" X 29"
     Sides - 22" X 27-1/2"
     Back - 25-1/2" X 27-1/2"

Gusset Supports
     (2) 20" X 25-1/4"

Table Tops Parts
      Table Tops(2) - 16" X 27-1/4"
      End Pieces(4) - 4" X13"
      Side Pieces(4) -4" X 25"
      Gusset Supports(4) - 5-1/4" X 10-3/4"
      Gusset Stops(2) - 1" X 3"
      Block of wood(6) - 2-1/2" X 2-1/2"

Fence Part
      Fence Base(2) - 6-1/4" X 33"
      Front Fence(2) - 2-1/2" X 33"
      Back Fence(2) - 1-1/2" X 33"
      End Support(2) - 4" X 13"

      6 Hanger Bolts (either 5/16" or 1/4" X 3")
      8 Light Duty 4" T-hinges
      6 Five Star Knobs
      6 Fender Washers (same size as hanger bolts)
      2 Compression Spring (1/2" outside diameter; 1-1/8" length)
     18" full extension drawer slides

Fence Stop Hardware
      Wing Nut - 1/4"
      Steel Rod - 3/8" X 12"
      Hex Bolt - 2-1/2"" X 1/4"
      Lock Nut - 1/4"
      3 Washers -1/4"
      Carriage Bolt - 1" X 1/4"
      Knob - 1/4" (small through hole shop jig knob)  

Note: The arthur of the article purchased a Kreg Top Track, Kreg adhesive measuring tapes, a Kreg Swing Stop and a Kreg Production Stop. All these items cost over $100 and didn't even get very good reviews on For this reason I created my own stop based on one I've seen. I did purchase some T-track on sale from Rockler for the top of the fence and two 4' adhesive measuring rulers, one for each direction from Hartville Tools for $4.00 each.


I cut all the wood for the carcass. I then cut a 3/4" plywood width dado, 1/4" deep, in the bottom piece for both sides. A dado was also made in the top piece but the location of the dado is different from the bottom piece since the top is larger than the bottom.





I meant to cut the same type of dado in the rear of the bottom and top piece for the back piece to fit but I forgot to add the extra 1/2" to the side and top of the back. Instead, I cut the back piece 25" X 27". Since I didn't want any visible screws, I decided to use a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. I really don't like using Kreg type joints. It's a personal opinion but I think it's often the easy way out and I don't learn anything by always using this type of joint. In this case it worked perfectly. Later, I used the Kreg Jig for table tops.


I glued the box together.












I cut the rest of the pieces for the table tops and fence.


There are 4 Table Top Supports (5-1/4" X 10-3/4). Two of the supports are glued together. This is done for both of them.


After they are dry, I cut the corners off the gusset supports and sanded them.

Next I started to assemble the table tops. I used the Kreg Jig to connect all the pieces.

I used the Kreg Jig to make the screw holes in the long pieces of the table top supports.


I placed the table top upside down and placed its supporting pieces on it. One end is flush to the table top. The other end will not be flush. I centered the end board on the table top.








The location of the sides is determined by the width of the inter support so I put the support in place. I then clamped the end that was flush with the table top. Next I clamped on side from end to end. Then I clamped the other side end to end. Lastly I clamped the support in place. Now I was ready to screw it in place. I used 1-1/4" Kreg screws.

I removed the support, which is screwed in place much later.


Now for the fence extension.

I started with the fence base which is 6-1/4"" X 33". I used my router table to route the 1/2" slot. I had decided on which side of the boards I wanted face up so when I routed the other fence I had to turn it upside down when I cut it on the router table. If I hadn't routed one of the boards upside down the slots wouldn't line up with each other since the slot is not located in the exact center of the board.


Now I'm going to glue the rear fence in place. The rear fence is flush with the top part of the fence base. The end support piece is glued to the underside of the fence base.


In this image I'm clamping the rear fence. The rear fence is turned upside down. On the left side is the end support.


The fence is dry and is turned right side up. This is the left side rear fence.


In this photo I'm clamping the main fence. I used 2-3/4" hard maple but plywood can be used. This photo also shows the rear fence flush with the top of the rear fence base.


Next the two Gusset Supports need to be cut to shape.

Before assembling the pieces I added banding on all the edges. I highly recommend the Freud White Birch Edge Banding Tape. I've used different kinds and this is one of the best I've found. Next I added two coats of Rockler's Polyurethane Gel to all the pieces.

After everything is dried I add the wheels. These are 4" wheels from Hartville Tools. They have some of the best wheels but they're not cheap.



Assembling the side wings

4" light duty National Hinges. I original purchased the heavy duty 4" ones but they wouldn't fit when it came to the table tops. Since I had them on hand, I went ahead and used the heavy duty hinges for the gusset supports. Pre-drilled with a 5/64" drill bit.

Pre-drill holes. I used #8 screws that were 3/4"

This photo show the left side table top. The flush side of the table top sets on the main cabinet top


I pre-drilled all the holes. I attached the hinges to the inside of the side table top first. I then attached it to the main cabinet. I set the side table top 6" from the back of the main cabinet.

Now I determined the location of the support. Again I used the Kreg jig to screw it in place.


When I made the left side, I did the finishing steps after I attached it to the main cabinet. This photo show the right side table top and fence. With the right side I added the finishing attachments before I secured it to the main cabinet.

I put the fence in place on the side table top. I took a pencil and drew around the slots so when the fence is removed it will show where the slots set on the table top.

After I removed the fence you could see the pencil mark of the slots. I had to determine the location of the hanger bolts. I also had to keep in mind that nothing could be in the way of the hanger bolts on the back side of the table top. The arrows indicate where I'm planning on screwing in the hanger bolts. Additionally, I made a very light mark of the location of the board that is underneath the table top.


There's a total of 3 hanger bolts for each table top.

These are the parts that are needed to finish the table tops and fence. I found these 5 star knobs in a drawer. The knobs are 5/16" so I purchased six(6) 5/16" hanger bolts. 1/4" could also be used. I cut six(6)  blocks of wood approximately 2-1/2" X 2-1/2". These blocks will be placed under the table tops where the hanger bolts will be installed. They will help support the bolts.

One end of the bolt screws into the wood while the other end allows the knobs to be screwed on.

One method of installing hanger bolts is to use two nuts. Tighten the nuts together then you can use a wrench on the lower bolt to screw the bolt in place. I pre-drilled with   "drill bit. If you use 1/4" hanger bolt, pre-drill with a   " drill bit

The bolts have been screwed in place.

I placed the fence part back on the table top and screw the knobs in place. Each knob has a washer. These washers are a little small. I plan on replacing them with fender washers.

Tighten the knobs down and now the side wing can be folded down. The side wing isn't finished yet because I have to fix it so it's flush with the saw.


Note: I didn't really think about this until I finished the side tables but when adding the hinges make sure the hinges are all placed at the exact same height and location. Additionally, make sure the backs of both side table line up. If not then one table could be higher than the other and/or the fences will not be inline with the miter saw. In the article I based my miter stand on, he indicated he made his right fence 1/2" behind his miter saw's fence to allow for warped wood. I couldn't tell if he did this for both of his fences or just the right one. The wood I get isn't this warped so I didn't do this.


Another item the article doesn't mention but indicates in one of the drawings, is adding a spring to the first hanger bolt on each side of the miter saw. The idea behind this is so the washer doesn't fall when the rear table is pulled out. It just makes it easier so when the fence extensions are pushed back in place, the washer doesn't have to be held up as the fence extension is replaced.





Fence Stop

I'll do my best to describe this. I really like this stop. I saw it in some plans for a different miter saw stand. I should have thought it out more carefully and adapted it more for my stand. Instead, I followed the directions and the order that is stated on the plan, which was later a problem.

I would first recommend installing what ever type of T-track you are going to use. I wish I had done this. Next make the block that will run on the T-track. Again I wish I had known about this order earlier. The plans state to make a center notch that runs in the channel of the T-track. I tried this a whole bunch of different ways but no matter what I did I wasn't able to tighten the block so it wouldn't move in the track. I ended up cutting the notch off and using just the block of wood.

  block with notch



A 1/4" hole is drilled through the top so a T-bolt can run through it. A washer sets on top of the block of wood and is held in place by a small shop jig knob. Put the block in place and secure it to the fence for the next step. The image below shows the notch cut off and a hole has been through. A T-bolt has been put through the hole with a washer and a jig knob.








Next the arms are made.

The arms need to be designed so they can be secured to the block of wood on the T-track and so the reach the bottom of the fence to the table top. I had to make these twice because the fence in the plans was much shorter than my fence. I could have made these a third time but I didn't want to start over. (You'll see why later). They also need to fit against the fence. It might be better to cut them out of paper until the right size and angle is achieved.

DON'T DRILL A HOLE IN THEM YET! I know the photo shows a hole in them but that's another thing I did wrong. Later you'll see where I have to drill the holes over again.

Next make the stop blocks.

Both block are cut 2" X 2-1/2". A 1/4" hole is drilled 1/2" from one of the 2" edges and centered. The size of the cut out or where I placed the star is determined by the size of the arms. The arms will be glued into these notches and everything should set flat against the fence on the fence table top. Mine are approximately 1" X 1/4"

Next a 3/8" hole is drilled into the side of the block on the block that was already drilled with the 1/4" drill will go through the block. With the other block it will only be drilled in about an 1".

Next the block of wood that has the one hole that about an inch deep will have a 3/8" rod glued into it. You'll note in the image below I didn't make the block thick enough so I added another 1/4" to the bottom. I ended up doing this to both blocks, as you'll see later.


I was having a lot of problems with this so I forgot to take a photo of it but take the other block of wood. A 1/4" hole should already be made in the top of it. A 1/4" carriage bolt needs to go through this so on the underside the hole must be drilled larger so the head of the bolt will be flush with the underside of the block of wood. I used a forester bit for this. I wish I could remember the size I used or how deep I went but I remember I slowly made it deep and deep and constantly checked it with the carriage bolt. Once the carriage bolt is flush with the bottom of the block of wood, a washer and wing nut is installed on the threads.

Now is the time to glue on the arm pieces. Once the arms are dry, the block of wood with the T-bolt through it needs to have a hole drilled through the side. To locate where to drill the hole, place fence stop and arms flush against the fence. The T-bolt block of wood should be secured on the fence rail. Then mark where the hole in the arms meet the block of wood that is secured on the rail. Drill a hole through the wood then install the hex bolt, washers and lock nut. Make sure the lock nut is loose enough to allow the arms to rotate up.

As you can see in the photo on the left I have to drill two holes in the arms. Also I had to add an extra 1/4" of wood to the bottom of the stop block. This covered the end of the carriage bolt before I thought to take a photo.

I like this stop block so the next time I make one it will be a lot better.






stop block finished with extension