Space Saving Clamp Rack

Ordinary Woodworking Clamps Rack

I had purchased a metal clamp holder for my Bessey K-body and F-clamps. This worked until I started getting more clamps than the rack could hold. It can hold 30 clamps in the space of 10.

This rack is based on 3 different sized rectangles. I made the tops from hard maple and the other pieces from Poplar. I now wish I hadn't use poplar because it's very soft wood but I had so much on hand I wanted to get rid of it.

Large Rectangle
      Top 22 X 3
     Sides 28-1/4 X 3
     Bottom 20-1/2" X 3
     2 Support Boards 20-1/2 X 4

Middle Rectangle
     Top 22 X 3
     Sides 16-3/4 X 3
     Bottom 20-1/2 X 3
     2 Support Boards 3 X 20-1/2

Small Rectangle
     Top 22 X 3
     Sides 5-1/4 X 3
     Bottom 20-1/2 X 3
     2 Support Boards 20-1/2 X 1-1/2

All slots are 1/2". The large and middle rack starts 2" from the end to the middle of the first slot then it's 2" from the middle of slot to the middle of next slot. The small rack starts 2" from the end to the first slot then it's 1-1/2" from middle of slot to the middle of the next slot.

Hardware
        Piano Hinge
        2 magnetic door latches
        2" Pipe Insulation
        4 lag screws 3/8" X 3-1/2" with fender washers

 

Cut all the boards to size. Next the slots will be cut in the tops.

There are several different ways the slots in the top pieces could be cut. First the tops could be taped together and cut all at once but I didn't want to do this so I cut each one individually. I cut the spaces of top of the large rectangle and the top of the medium rectangle the same but I cut the top of the smaller rectangle so the spaces would be closer together.

Another option is to mark each board where a slot should be cut and line the mark with the dado blade and make the cut. I didn't do this either. Instead I used a make shift box cutting jig.

I took a scrap piece of wood and screwed it onto my miter gauge. I used a 1/2" dado blade raised to 2". With the scrap of wood attached to the miter gauge I cut through the scrap piece.

For the first cut I measured in  " and made the cut.

I lined up the blade with the next mark.

Once the blade was lined up with the mark, I clamped the board in place and hammered a nail against the side of the first slot. I hammered the nail in a position required me to place slight pressure on the nail against the side of the slot to make the next cut.

 

After making the second cut I placed the second slot over the nail. I continued making the rest of the cuts in the same manner. I then cut the top of the middle rectangle using the same method. For cutting the last top I changed the location of the nail so the slots would be closer together. I determined the location of the nail in the same manner as I did the first time.

 

 

I have two tops the same and one that has the slots closer together.

 

 

 

 

 

Now cut the slots in the bottom. If you noticed, the size of the tops and bottoms are different. You could make both of them the same size and attach them in the same manner if you wish but I didn't do it this way. Instead the bottom boards are shorter than the tops.

 

To mark the location of the slots in the lower boards I took the tops and marked the location of where the side pieces will be. I took the bottom board and positioned it on the top board. I used the slots in the top board and marked the location of the slots in the bottom board.

 

 

 

 

Once the bottoms were marked I cut the slots with the dado blade by lining it up with the marks.

 

 

 

 

Next I had to decided how I wanted to attach the boards. I think any method can be used but I decided to minimized the visual screws and use some pocket holes and a few brad nails.

 

 

The next step isn't much fun but the top boards are going to have a lot of weight on them. To help support the weight some supporting blocks need to be added. I used some left over maple wood for the support boards. For the large and middle holders I cut some pieces at a 45 degree angle. For the smallest holder I used a 40 degree angle. I used my miter saw to cut the pieces.

 

 

 

Since these boards are going to help support the weight I not only glued them in place but I added 2 brad nails to each piece.

 

 

 

 

I used a piano hinge because I had one in stock. It was 48" so I had to determine the sizes I needed and cut it to size.

 

 

 

After attaching the hinge, I added the magnetic latch. I placed the latch where it can't be seen from the front.

 

I attached the next piano hinge and the second latch in the same manner.

 

 

To help prevent the clamps from sliding on the wood, I added some 2" pipe insulation to the top notches of each of the holders.

 

To hold the rack on the wall I used 4 3/8" X 3-1/2" lag screws with fender washers. I screwed the screws into two wall studs. Whatever method is used to mount the rack remember this rack will be supporting a lot of weight.

I have finished adding the insulation on the bottom rack in the photo below. This rack is very secure and strong. Next --onto the pipe rack.

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