Right-Side Table Saw Extension Table

I'm tired of trying to cut full size plywood without adequate space so I created an outfeed extension table and a right side extension table. My table saw is the standard 27" wide and I've decided to make the extension 36" long. The frame is made from 3/4" X 2 1/2" clear douglas fir. I had purchased a Biesemeyer fence system with leg supports and needed an extension table. I made the table but never ended up using it because right before I finsihed the project I purchased my powermatic 2000 table saw. Since I didn't see any instructions on making such a table on the Internet I thought I'd would post mine.


setting up my miter saw


First I cut all the pieces for the frame to the size I needed.

I plan on making a miter saw stand with side wings but since I haven't made it yet, so I set up my saw with a make shift stop.




Side Note:
I first went to Home Depot and purchased the wood I needed in Pine. Since their wood is very wet, I let it set in the garage for a couple a days. Although I laid it flat when I went to use it, it was useless. I went to Home Depot because it's close and I thought their wood would be cheaper. I went to Anawalt Lumber in Montrose, located about 20 minutes away. Their wood is all dry kiln. I purchased the exact same dimensions of wood and the price was exactly the same. Look around for a good place to purchase good wood, it might not be as expensive as you think.


clamping the outer pieces

I want to screw all the pieces together but since I don't find it easy to screw two pieces of wood together at a 90 degree angle, I lightly glue the pieces together then later I will use the screws. I dry fitting the center pieces while I clamped the outer pieces. The center pieces are equally spaced. The right angle in the photo is an Incra Guaranteed Precision Square. This is one of the most used tools in my workshop, I love it.

clamping boards together


center punch


I used a center punch then I pre-drilled the hole. I used 1-1/2" Spax screws. I really like these screws and use them often for various projects.

I also countersunk the holes




screws I used


screws in wood










marking the MDFI added 3/4" MDF to the top. I marked the MDF to show where the boards underneath the MDF would be so I would place the screws in the center of the boards.

Again I pre-drilled all the holes and countsunk them.





The next step is to add the laminate top. I purchase the Formica from Lowe's but the employees never know what I'm talking about so I always have to find it myself.

To attach laminate to the MDF I use contact cement. I also have a laminate roller. I've laminate quite a few things, so it helps having a roller.

contact cement



laminate roller




securing laminate

I follow the directions on the can. When I go to place the laminate on the MDF with the contact cement, I place several pieces of wood on the MDF. As I remove the pieces of wood, I use the roller to secure the laminate to the MDF.







Before removing the wood, line up the laminate first then start removing the wood a piece at a time at the same time use the laminate roller to secure the laminate to the MDF.



Once the contact cement is dried the table is ready to be attached to the rails of the table saw.