Planer / Rigid Oscillating Sander Cabinet
In my never ending quest to become organized I decided to take apart one of my cabinets and rebuild a new one that would better serve my purpose. Anyone that owns the Rigid sander knows how much dust it creates so I wanted to design a cabinet with some type of dust collection system. The planer will still set on top of the cabinet while the sander will set below on a shelf that will pull out.
Old Planer Stand
This was my old planer stand. Since I built the wall cabinet and the miter stand I had room to clear out these drawers.
New Planer/Sander Stand
This is basically a cabinet with a few extra touches so I'm not going to go in to detail about it's construction. Some people wouldn't want their sanders so low to the ground but I don't mind it at all and the dust collection system I set up works great.
I cut the sides, top and bottom. I cut the back after I glued everything together to make sure I cut it to the proper size.
I routed the top and bottom of the side pieces 3/4" X 3/8". I then routed the back of each side piece, 1/2" X 1/4", to allow the back piece to fit into place. I also had to route the back of the top and bottom pieces, 1/2" X 1/4", to allow the back piece to fit flush.
I cut a 4" hole for the dust collection Y-fitting. The hole is located 8-1/8" down from the top of the side piece and 1-1/8" in from the back of the side piece. The hole will have to be slightly larger than 4" to fit the wye fitting. Get the hole to size before gluing the case together.
I installed the sliders before gluing the case together to make it easier. I used 22" full extension sliders because I had several on hand. The front of the sliders were installed even with the front of the plywood. I later add a face frame to give me a little more room. I placed the top slider 1-7/8" down from the bottom part route. The top of the bottom slider is 2-5/8" up from the routed portion.
Glued all piece together except back so it would be easier to work with installing the fittings.
Install the Y fitting. Silicone in place. Attached tubing. Make sure the back of the cabinet will fit. The Y fitting has to be installed so the backis able to fit.
I installed the back of cabinet.
Bottom pull out shelf
I next made the bottom drawer. The photo below shows the drawer upside down. I attached the front, side and bottom pieces underneath the top piece. All pieces are 3/4' plywood. Everything is just glued together with Titebond 1 wood glue.
Top piece is 3/4" X 22-1/2" X 20-5/8"
Under side pieces: 3/4" X 1-1/2" X 20-5/8"
I waited to glue on the face piece on the pull out shelf until I finished installing the face frame on the cabinet. This allowed me to determine the exat size I needed to cut the face piece for the shelf.
Front Face Piece: Cherry Wood 1/2" X 2-1/4" X 22-1/2"
Like the sliders in the cabinet, the sliders for the pull out shelf were attached even with the front of the plywood. The back of the slider over hangs the back of the shelf.
Before putting the bottom shelf in place I attached the wheels to the cart.
You can also see the photos that I haven't attached the cherry face on the pull out shelf at this point.
I made a 3/4" X 3/4" cherry face frame to fit around the front of the case. I used cherry because I had a few pieces left from another project.
After the face frame was installed I made a cherry face board for the bottom shelf. It was 1/2" X 2-1/4" X 22-1/2".
When I make things for the garage I like to try different methods of doing things. This time I decided to make the drawer slightly different. The front piece is cut from Cherry wood to match the face frame, while the sides and back are made from 1/2" baltic birch plywood. Verify the size of the front piece since it could vary based on the cabinet's face frame.
Front: Cherry wood 5/8" X 4-3/16" X 23-7/16"
I installed the slide before gluing everything together to make it easier. The front of the slide had to be installed approximatly 3/8" from the end of the plywood so the front of the drawer would still be able to fit over the sides. If this is unclear, read further before installing the slides.
All the pieces were routed 1/4" X 1/4" to accept the 1/4" plywood bottom. If you plan on making the drawer the same way be careful when routing the front piece, you don't want to route to the ends of the board.
Bottom: 1/4" X 21-1/4" X 21-7/8"
I glued the back piece of the drawer by butting it up to the side pieces of the drawer.
The front was attached a little different. I glued the sides to the front by routing 1/2" W X 3-1/2" L. The 3-1/2" was measured from the bottom of the front piece. It was 1/4" deep and 1/2" in from each side. I then glued the pieces together. (This is why the drawer slides couldn't be installed at the very edge of the plywood).
I then applied 2 coats of Rockler's Wipe on Poly. I attached a handle to the drawer and also to the sides of the case so it could easily be moved.
I put the sander in place and attached the tubing. I used silicone where the tubing met the fittings. The 2-1/2" hose fits onto the sander (The Rigid sander has a 2-1/2" dust collection fitting on the back of the sander) while the 4" hose is attached to a 10" dust collection hood (Mine was made by Big Horn). I don't recall the length of hose I used but be aware that enough hose is needed so the sanding can be pulled out but also be aware if there is too much hose the sander will not have enough room to be pushed back in place.
The sander has several screw holes located on the surface of the sanding platform. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the plastic hood to allow the screw to fit through. I used a fender washer and the screw provided with the sander to screw the hood into place.
When the sander is not in use the screw is removed and the hood is moved forward to allow room for the hoses. Then the shelf and sander can be pushed back into the case.
When the sander is in use I attach the dust collector to the 4" fitting on the outside of the case.
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