Parent's TV Stand page 2
Attaching the bottom to the sides and back
There's a lot of ways the bottom can be attached to the side and back piece. I'm going to use pocket hole screws. If you don't want to use pocket holes, here's another I used on a previous project.
You cut some pieces about 3/4" to 1" all around. Cut one the length of the back and two the length of the sides. Mark where you want the bottom to set, then screw and glue these pieces to the back and the sides. The bottom piece will rest on the top of these pieces. Later in the project, you'll turn everything upside down screw the bottom to these boards.
With either method you will still need pieces to support the front portion. I wanted the molding to be 3" H, so I cut some boards 3" H without thinking about the 3/4" bottom. So I should have cut the boards 2-1/4" instead of the 3". By the time I thought about this, it was too late so my molding is now going to be a little higher.
I used the 3" boards (these boards will be used to support the front of the bottom board) to mark where the bottom board should be attached to the back and sides.
I drilled for the pocket holes in the bottom and in the boards I'll being using to support the front of the bottom.
I screwed the front boards on first then screwed the bottom board to the back and side board.
I used a band clamp to hold everything together while I screwed the bottom board in place.
Since I used the 3" boards earlier to mark the back and side pieces, it was easy to see where the bottom board was to be screwed in.
The front will be covered with molding so I didn't need the front boards to be an exact size lengthwise.
Post and Inside Dividers
Post: 3/4" X 2" X 16-7/16"
Next I cut the front post and inside dividers. The post are mahogany while the dividers are plywood.
I placed and marked where the post and the inside dividers would be. The post will set at the front corner of the bottom board. I also marked where the inside divider would set against the post. The divider board does not set in the middle of the post. This is because the post will be drilled for the shelf supports. I next marked and pre-drilled the holes for the screws. I spaced them about 3" apart. I used a 5/64" bit.
I had planned on adding some type of glass doors to the front of the TV stand. When I got to this point, my parents decided they didn't want glass doors. This stand will be in their family room and will have an Xbox. Since this TV is mainly used with the Xbox, they felt it would better to leave the area open. To bad I've never made glass doors before and was looking forward to it.
I originally planned on attaching the post to the bottom board and top board with glue and dowel pins. Since it won't be supporting doors, I just glued the post of the inside divider.
Once the post were glued I clamped the divider boards in place and turned it upside down. This allowed me to screw the dividers in place. I used #8 1-1/2" screws.
Before reattaching the bottom board I drilled a 1-1/4" hole in the back board so the cables could fit through.
With the back attached to the bottom I was able to take measurements for the side and middle shelves. I planned on adding edge band so I had to take this into account when I did my measurements.
At this point I removed the screws and unattached the back and sides from the bottom board.
Before attaching the dividers and post, I drilled the holes for the shelf supports.
I marked the post and the dividers. I placed the middle hole 8-1/4" H, then I spaced a hole above and below the middle hole about 3/4". I used a 1/4" drill bit.
The holes for the shelves can go pretty much anywhere. I made a drawing where I placed them.
Here are the two side shelves before I added the egde band.
I reattached the inside dividers to the bottom but I decided not to reattach the bottom to the back part. I thought I'd finish the pieces before reattaching them.
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