Sandpaper Wall Cabinet

Every woodworker uses sandpaper so every woodworker needs a place to store their sandpaper. Different cabinets will work for different woodworkers based on what type of sandpaper they use.

The cabinet might seem big for some people but I had to store all this stuff somewhere and now I have it all in one place. I designed this sandpaper wall cabinet based on my needs. It will hold my two sanding disc stands, my rolls of sandpaper for my Rigid sander (I love this sander and highly recommend it), regular sheets of sandpaper and a few other sanding items.

I started with building the box from 1/2" plywood.
Top(1) - 27-3/4" X 13-5/8"
Bottom(1) - 27-3/4" X 13-5/8"
Sides(2) - 16-5/8" X 13-5/8"

sanding cabinet topsanding cabinet bottom board

                       sanding cabinet sides

After cutting the pieces I routed a 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep cut in the side pieces at the top, back and bottom. I then routed 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep cut into the back of the top and bottom pieces.

image of side board routedrouting for the back piece


After putting the pieces together I took a measurement to cut the back piece.

cabinet back piece

I then routed a 5/8" wide X 1/4" deep cut in each side piece. I used 5/8" because I had it on hand. 1/2" could have been used.

measurements of routing in sides

After routing the sides I took the measurement to cut the middle horizontal board. The horizontal middle board was 27-3/4" wide by 12" deep. (Ignore the dado cuts in the bottom board. I did that next).

location of routing

I took the bottom board and the middle board and dado cut a 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep.

measurements of bottom board and horizontial board

Next I cut the two vertical boards that will go in the dados I just cut. Mark one vertical board left and one right.

inside vertical boards

Next was the fun part; cutting the 1/4" X 1/4" slots. I cut these on a table saw to make it easier.

mark the top of each board

I took the top board and horizontal middle board. The underside of the top board and the top of the middle board need to have matching 1/4" slots.

So I wouldn't get confused as to which sides of the boards I needed to be cut I marked each board. I wrote on each board Top fence with an arrow to indicate which side was always up and towards the table saw fence when I made the cut. The image below shows the measurements of the cuts I made on the top and middle board.

measurements between the dados


Next I took the left side and the left vertical board. The two boards don't match up so I made all the cuts on one left side board then marked the left vertical board to match up with the side board and made the cuts.

the two boards don't match up

left side and left inside vertical board

I cut the next pair, the right side and right vertical board. These boards also don't line up. So I did the same thing, I cut the right side board first then used it to marked the right vertical board.

right side and right vertical boards


cutting the right side and right inside vertical board

I didn't make a big deal about being exact on the distance between each cut. The first 1/4" cut on right inside vertical board was started 1-1/16" from the top of the board. Then there was a little over 1-5/8" between each cut after that. There were a total of nine 1/4" X 1/4" cuts in the right vertical board.



cabinet glued together

Now I cut the 1/4" boards for all the slots. I cut 7 of the smaller boards 4-5/8" X 12" and 9 of the larger boards 10-1/4" X 12".

1/4" plywood dividers


1/4" plywood boards for sandpaper



I sanded all the wood with 220 grit. I glued the various parts together although I didn't bother with the 1/4" slats. I put two coats of the Rockler poly gel I've mentioned before.

You might have wondered why the cabinet is larger than the boards inside. This is to allow room for the doors. Since everything always seems to gets dust on it, I wanted to add some type of door to the cabinet. This is the first time I'm trying this but I plan on using 1/4" sliding doors. I check the Internet and settled on Rockler's Hardwood Track and upper Guide. Rockler's website has installation instruction although they are just glued into place. The deeper track goes on the top the smaller one goes on the bottom.

Cabinet Doors

NOTE: Before gluing in the door runners install the 1/4" plywood slats in the upper shelf. Once the door slides are in place the plywood can't be slid into the slots.

The drawer slides are made from hard maple and designed to fit 1/4" plywood. I cut the drawer slides to length and glued them in place. I then cut the doors to 13-13/16" wide by 15-5/16" tall. I was worried about cutting the height to short so I started by cutting it longer than it needed to be and slowly cut it shorter and shorter checking it every time until I obtained a perfect fit. As for the width I only let the two doors overlay just slightly so I was still able to remove all the sanding belts without the doors interfering. I drilled a finger hole in each door. I used a 1-1/8" drill bit but I wished I had used a smaller one. I also ironed on some birch edge banding to cover of the plywood edges.

Sandpaper cabinet finished In the lower left side shelf I store my sandpaper rolls. I also have a Black and Decker Mouse Sander. I store its sandpaper with the rolls.

In the next shelf up I store my painter's tape and 3 sanding pads.

In the next shelf up I store my two sanding blocks.

As mentioned before it stores my two sanding disc stands. In the same area I store my 8" sandpaper cleaner stick.

I designed this cabinet to fit exactly what I needed. I plan on marking the grits of the different sandpaper belts and individual sandpaper shelves.

right side of finished sandpaper cabinet

Its setting on the top of my router table but soon I'll attach it to the wall.

sandpaper cabinet finished with doors closed

Remember if you have any question feel free to email me.