Table Saw Cabinet

Since this will be my own design I don't have an image of what the finished product will look like. Also the idea of the saw cabinet is mainly a cabinet with drawers so I'm not going to go into every little detail. The total height with the wheels will be 30-1/4".

2 Sides - 24-1/2" X 26-1/4"
   1 top - 24-1/2" X 32-1/2"
   1 Bottom - 24-1/2" X 32-1/2"
   1 Back - 32" X 26-1/4"

I started building the main box from 3/4" baltic birch plywood. The maximum height that will fit under the table saw extension is 30-1/2". 4-1/2" will be minus for the wheels. Since I've only used finger joints one other time, when I built the hanging wall cabinet, so I decided to try it again. I used 3/4" fingers. It wasn't easy creating such long finger joints on the table saw, but it all worked out. I probably should have tried to figure out how to do it with a router.

Cabinet put together with finger joints


rounte the back of the case for the back piece

After gluing the box together, I used my hand router and routed 5/8” deep by 3/8” wide rabbit cut around the inside edge of the back of the box. I would have used a 1/2" piece for the back but I only had a 5/8" piece available.









Face Frame

I would normally do the face frame much later but I recently read an article from Fine Woodworking regarding building in the right order. The article stated to install the face frame after making the box.


face frame installed on cabinet


I wanted a face frame but I didn't want to lose much space so I made the face frame 1 inch. I've read comments posted on various websites stating that a face frame doesn't do anything except hold a door in place. I don't know what level of expertise these people have if any but I also read in several Fine Woodworking articles that a face frame 2" or large can make the box a lot stronger. I just added a face frame for the practice and look.

The two vertical sides are 26-1/4". The four horizontal pieces are 30-1/2". I used a pocket hole jig to secure the pieces together. The frame was made from walnut.



There will be four drawers. All the drawers are made from 1/2" plywood. For each drawer I routed the back piece 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep for each of the side pieces to be glued in place. I also routed the front sides of the side pieces so the front piece could be glued in place. Because the drawers are so big I made the bottom piece of the larger drawers from a 1/2" plywood. I routed the bottom of each piece 1/2 deep X 1/4" wide so the bottom piece would fit flush. I used 22" full extension drawer slides for the top two drawers. For the lower drawers I used Blum 562H 21" under mount drawer slides.


Side and back pieces routedSides and front board routed


Top Drawer 
                  Front - 3" X 29"
                  Back - 3" X 29-1/2"
                  Sides - 3" X 22-3/4"
                  Bottom - 1/2" X 29-1/16" X 23-1/8"

Middle Drawer
                 Front - 5-1/4" X 29"
                 Back - 5-1/4" X 29-1/2"
                 Sides - 5-1/4" X 22-3/4"
                 Bottom - 1/2" X 29-1/16" X 23-1/8"

Right Bottom Drawer
                Front - 13-3/8"W X 9-1/4"H
                Back - 14"W X 9-1/2"H
                Sides - 20-3/4" X 9-1/2"
                Bottom - 1/4" X
                Support pieces - 3/4" X 1-1/4"H X 14-1/2"L
                Saw support board - 12-7/8" X 14-1/2"


Right drawer with saw board support installed


The right bottom drawer. I glued the support pieces an inch from the drawer bottom. I used my circular saw to determine where the slot should be placed then I enlarged it with my jigsaw.











Left Bottom Drawer
                Front - 13-1/4"W X 9-1/2"H
                Back -14"W X 8-1/2"H
                Side left -20-3/4"W X 7-1/4"H
                Side right - 20-3/4"W X 9"H
                Bottom - 1/4" X 23-3/4" X 13-1/4"


The left bottom drawer is going to be for my table saw blades, dado blades and accessories. I took a piece of 1/2" of plywood and laid it out. I then routed 3 1/4" lines. The image on the right show the widths of the spaces.


laying out the bottom left drawermeasurements and starting to route the bottom board for the left drawer



routed slots for the blade supports

Next I'll mark then route the blade supports. I spaced the 1/4" slots between a 1/2" to 7/16".















dividing board heights I cut the dividing boards at different heights. The first board is 5-1/8" H; second board is 3" H; third board is 4-1/4" H.







dividing pieces glued in place



Next I glued the dividing pieces in place.

I also glued two 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" squares on the board.

I drilled each square with a 1/2" drill bit so later I could glue in a 1/2" dowel piece.



dado chipper blades and shims installed


I glued a square pieces to the bottom of the board so it's easier to remove the chippers or the spacers that are against the board and also so it would help support the dowel.

I cut additional squares to put in between the chippers of my dado blade.







gluing in blade dividing boards

I cut and glued in the blade dividing boards.

12 larger boards 10-1/4" X 8"

6 smaller boards 10-1/4" X 5"






After I finished the drawers I thought I'd see how everything fit in them.

two lower drawers finished with items in place

I put two coats of poly gel on the drawers and the cabinet. I installed the upper drawer slides to the sides of the cabinet and install the drawers.

There's a very good video regarding installing Blum Under mount slides here. In the video he attaches the slides to the rear and face frame of the cabinet. I attached the slides to the bottom of the cabinet. I needed to lift the slides up to clear face frame so I screwed 1/2" plywood pieces in the cabinet where the slides would be placed. I drilled three holes into the bottom of each slide so I could screw it into the bottom. I attached the far left slide first then put the drawer in place and marked the location of the left drawers right slide. I did the right drawer the same way. After installing the bottom drawers I screwed the center piece face frame in place.


drawers installed without fronts


I had planned on using maple for the door fronts but changed my mine and used 3/4" plywood. I cut the drawers from one big piece of plywood so the grain would match. I measured and cut each drawer to the exact opening. I then used my oscillating sander to sand each side down so it would still fit snug but the drawer could still slide freely. I drilled holes in the drawer fronts for the handles. I also added handles to the sides of the cabinet so I could use them to pull the cabinet out from under the table saw.

I rarely us a miter gauge so I attached then to the sides of the cabinet. I also added the wrench I use to change the blades and the push bar that came with the saw. I rarely use the push bar since I have two Grippers located in the second drawer. The photo below shows how I glued the pieces together to make the miter gauge holder.

gluing walnut pieces to hold the miter gauge


left side of cabinetright side of cabinet


I plan on added drawer dividers to the upper drawers but first I want to use them for a couple of months to see where I actually like everything.


finished cabinet