TV Stand page 8
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I wish I could say everything went off smoothly but I had a few problems finishing the project. One major problem was splotching, where one area stains dark than another. Also I tested about 12-15 different stains and dyes until I came across two of them that I really liked. This is something to remember, when making a project, purchase extra wood so you can test various stains and your complete finishing process. I used a test board and went through my entire finishing process. When I started putting the stain on the project, it was a different color than what was on the test board. It was too dark and I didn't like it.
I tried various pore fillers, see below.
I followed my instructions listed under finishing. Since the end wood will absorb more stain than the face wood I sanded the end grain to 320.
If I were to do it over again I would sand it all to 320 grit. I think African Mahogany needs to be sanded to a higher grit because it's so porous. I read a lot of articles about finishing mahogany but I think the articles are talking about genuine mahogany where as African mahogany is more porous and caused me more problems.
Once I finished sanding, I used a vacuum to remove the dust. I then used Mineral Spirits to remove the remaining dust. I wiped on a coat of 1 pound cut dewaxed SealCoat. Woodworkers should only use the dewaxed type of shellac. The containers below are identical and both are a 2 pound cut. I used denature alcohol to thin the shellac.
This is another thing I would do different. Since I had a problem with splotching I would wipe on a thicker coat of shellac. I would use at least 1.5 pound cut if not a 2 pound cut.
W. D. Lockwood
I use Ball glass jars for mixing my stains, shellac and other things. I purchase the 32oz in a 12 jar case and the 64 oz. jars in a 6 jar case. I found the best price for these is at an Ace Hardware. There are so many uses for these jars.
I mixed the powder dyes in the jar. I then filter the dye into another jar. I tape the label, that came with the dye, on the jar.
After getting the stain correct, I wiped on a coat of 2 pound cut shellac.
water based and oil based - In the articles I read if you use water base you use it before you stain where as if you use oil base you stain first, then put a layer of shellac then fill the wood.
I first tried Behlen's Mahogany filler but no matter what I tried the filler dyed the wood almost black. I tried a bunch of different things but no matter what I tried it ruined the wood. Not only didn't it work but it's a mess to work with.
I didn't fill the bottom side of the top so I added this photo in an attempt to show the difference between the filled side and the non filled side. This African Mahogany is very porous.
Behlen's natural Filler
Next I tried Behlen's none colored wood filler. This filler is a gray color and needs to be colored. If you don't color it the filler stays gray. Again I tried a bunch of different things but couldn't get it to work. It wasn't as messy because it didn't stain everything it touched but I still didn't like working with it. Someday I'll try it again with a different type of wood.
CrystaLac Clear Waterborne Wood Grain Filler
The last three coats of shellac were sprayed on. To see my review of the spray I used click here.
I want something that could protect the top of the TV stand a little more that what shellac would do so I sprayed 3 coats of Rockhard Table Top Varnish. The varnish is very thick so I deluded it 50%. This worked out to be the perfect amount. It also allowed it to dry quickly so stuff floating in the air didn't get a chance to stick to my work piece, which is a big problem with varnish.
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